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Fish Hook
A fish hook or fishhook is a device for finding and catching fish either by impaling them in the mouth or, considerably more rarely, by snagging bodily the fish. Fish hooks have been employed for centuries by simply anglers to catch fresh new and saltwater fish. In 2005, the fish fishing hook was chosen by Forbes as one of the top twenty tools in the history of man.|1| Fish hooks are usually attached to some form of line or perhaps lure which connects the caught fish to the fisherman. There is an enormous variety of seafood hooks in the world of fishing. Sizes, designs, shapes, and supplies are all variable depending on the intended purpose of the fish catch. Fish hooks are manufactured to get a range of purposes from basic fishing to extremely limited and specialized applications. Seafood hooks are designed to hold various kinds of artificial, processed, inactive or live baits (bait fishing); to act as the building blocks for artificial representations of fish prey (fly fishing); or to be attached to or integrated into other devices that represent fish prey (lure fishing).
The fish fishing hook or similar device continues to be made by man for many centuries. The world's oldest fish hooks (they were made out of sea snails shells) were discovered in Sakitari Cave in Okinawa Island dated between 22, 380 and twenty-two, 770 years old.|2||3| They are older than the fish hooks from the Jerimalai cave in East Timor dated between 23, 500 and 16, 000 years of age,|4| and Fresh Ireland in Papua Fresh Guinea dated 20, 500 to 18, 000 years old.|2|
An early written reference to a fish hook is found with regards to the Leviathan in the Book of Job 41: 1; Canst thou draw out leviathan using a hook? Fish hooks have been crafted from all sorts of materials which include wood, animal|5| and human bone, horn, shells, stone, bronze, iron, and up to present day materials. In many cases, hooks were created from multiple materials to leveraging the strength and positive characteristics of each material. Norwegians as late as the fifties still used juniper timber to craft Burbot hooks.|6| Quality metallic hooks began to make the look of them in Europe in the seventeenth century and hook producing became a task for authorities.
Typically referred to parts of a seafood hook are: its level, the sharp end that penetrates the fish's mouth or flesh; the barb, the projection extending backwards from the point, that secures the fish from unhooking; the attention, the loop in the end with the hook that is connected to the fishing line or lure; the bend and shank, that portion of the hook that connects the point and the eye; and the gap, the distance between your shank and the point. In so many cases, hooks are described through the use of these various parts of the hook, for example: wide gape, extended shank, hollow point or out turned eye.
Contemporary hooks are manufactured from either high-carbon steel, steel alloyed with vanadium, or stainless steel, according to application. Most quality seafood hooks are covered which includes form of corrosion-resistant surface shell. Corrosion resistance is required not only when hooks are used, especially in saltwater, but while they are kept. Additionally , coatings are placed on color and/or provide artistic value to the hook. At least, hooks designed for freshwater make use of are coated with a distinct lacquer, but hooks are coated with gold, dime, Teflon, tin and different hues.
There are a large number of different types of seafood hooks. At the macro level, there are bait hooks, soar hooks and lure hooks. Within these broad classes there are wide varieties of hook types designed for different applications. Hook types differ in shape, materials, points and barbs, and eye type, and ultimately in their intended app. When individual hook types are designed the specific characteristics of each and every of these hook components will be optimized relative to the hook's intended purpose. For example , a fragile dry fly hook is manufactured out of thin wire with a pointed eye because weight certainly is the overriding factor. Whereas Carlisle or Aberdeen light cable bait hooks make use of thin wire to reduce injury to live bait but the eyes are not really tapered because weight is certainly not an issue. Many factors develop hook design, including corrosion resistance, weight, strength, hooking efficiency, and whether the hook is being used for specific types of bait, on various kinds of lures or for different varieties of flies. For each hook type, there are ranges of suitable sizes. For all types of hooks, sizes range from thirty-two (the smallest) to 20/0 (the largest).
Hook forms and names are as varied as fish themselves. In some cases hooks are determined by a traditional or ancient name, e. g. Aberdeen, Limerick or O'Shaughnessy. In other cases, hooks are merely identified by their general purpose or have contained in their name, one or more with their physical characteristics. Some producers just give their hooks model numbers and describe all their general purpose and characteristics. One example is:
Eagle Claw: 139 can be described as Snelled Baitholder, Offset, Down Eye, Two Slices, Method Wire
Lazer Sharp: L2004EL is a Circle Sea, Large Gap, Non-Offset, Ringed Eye, Light Wire
Mustad Unit: 92155 is a Beak Baitholder hook
Mustad Model: 91715D is an O'Shaughnessy Jig Hook, 90 degree angle
TMC Model 300: Streamer D/E, 6XL, Heavy wire, Cast, Bronze
TMC Model 200R: Nymph & Dry Journey Straight eye, 3XL, Regular wire, Semidropped point, Cast, Bronze
The shape of the fishing hook shank can vary widely via merely straight to all sorts of figure, kinks, bends and offsets. These different shapes contribute in some cases to better hook penetration, fly imitations or trap holding ability. Many hooks intended to hold dead or perhaps artificial baits have sliced up shanks which create barbs for better baiting holding ability. Jig hooks are designed to have lead weight molded onto the hook shank. Hook descriptions may also consist of shank length as normal, extra long, 2XL, brief, etc . and wire size such as fine wire, extra heavy, 2X heavy, etc .
Hooks are designed as either solitary hooks-a single eye, shank and point; double hooks-a single eye merged with two shanks and items; or triple-a single eyesight merged with three shanks and three evenly spread out points. Double hooks happen to be formed from a single item of wire and may or may not get their shanks brazed together pertaining to strength. Treble hooks happen to be formed by adding a single eyeless hook to a double hook and brazing all three shanks together. Double hooks are being used on some artificial lures and are a traditional fly attach for Atlantic Salmon flies, but are otherwise fairly uncommon. Treble hooks are used in all sorts of artificial lures as well as for a wide variety of bait applications.
The hook point is probably the essential part00 of the hook. It is the level that must penetrate fish drag and secure the fish. The profile of the catch point and its length effect how well the point permeates. The barb influences how far the point penetrates, how much pressure is required to penetrate and ultimately the holding power of the hook. Hook points happen to be mechanically (ground) or chemically sharpened. Some hooks are barbless. Historically, many historical fish hooks were barbless, but today a barbless catch is used to make hook removal and fish release not as much stressful on the fish. Filling device points are also described in accordance with their offset from the fishing hook shank. A kirbed hook point is offset left, a straight point has no balance out and a reversed point is offset to the best suited.
Care needs to be taken when ever handling hooks as they may 'hook' the user. If a lift goes in deep enough below the barb, pulling the hook out will tear the flesh. There are three ways to remove a hook. The foremost is by cutting the flesh to remove it. The second is to cut the eye of the hook away and then push the remainder on the hook through the flesh plus the third is to place pressure on the shank towards the flesh which pulls the barb into the now oval opening then push the lift out the way it came in.
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